Travertine Pavers

Travertine pavers have been increasing in popularity in recent years, although the use of this kind of stone has been going on for thousands of years. Historical structures, such as the Colosseum in Rome and a 1000 year old Burghausen castle in Europe are made out of travertine and have withstood the test of time.

In modern times, travertine has been used extensively for pool paving, building structures such as fireplaces and walkways, and tiling bathrooms and kitchens. The natural color and beauty of travertine makes it a timeless material that will continue to impress those that invest in it.

There are benefits to using travertine pavers, besides the great look it provides. Travertine stays cool to the touch, even in heat and sunlight. This makes it a perfect material for paving around an outdoor pool. It also is a non-skid surface, even when wet, which is important for safety around a pool.

Travertine is easy to install, and can usually be done by those with experience in laying regular pavers. Because travertine is a natural stone, it is made to uphold through time, and will not fade or scuff. It is also a great choice in a variety of climates, because it can withstand freezing and thawing without cracking.

Travertine can be cut to different sizes, and is usually offered as tile or pavers. Travertine pavers are thicker than tile, and are a good choice for paving outdoor areas. The extra thickness makes them stronger and allows them to be placed in many areas without mortar.

One Stop Resource for Natural Stone

Larry's Cap Rock & Stone is a "one-stop" resource for all your natural stone needs.

We understand the dynamics of designing with stone. Experience and knowledge allow us to simplify the selection and fabrication process by effectively collaborating with architects, designers, builders and installation contractors. The results provide the most discerning client, the look they desire.

Our services include:
Stone / product research
Your specs call for rubble. And you aren’t sure what is or where to get it. Larry’s Cap Rock Inc. can help you distinguish the difference between rubble strips and coral rubble pieces so you accurately quote your job.

Sample submittals
Your client is discerning and requests samples to be included with your design plan. Larry’s Cap Rock & Stone will provide samples of any rock free of charge. We only ask that you pay shipping charges on anything that needs to be expedited.

Priority list, production and delivery schedules
Larry’s Cap Rock & Stone works diligently to provide you with realistic timelines and delivery schedules. Our sales people are committed to answering your questions and needs with honesty and candor about market conditions and weather events.

Factory/quarry liaison
Our business has been built on over 13 years of relationships with quarries throughout the United States and the world. We are committed to providing all clients with the widest variety of stone at the lowest prices.

Stone inspection/quality control
Quality control is a key element to our business. What many contractors don’t realize is that with any natural product, especially any sandstone you will have breakage. We work to minimize the amounts incurred by partnering with trusted quarries as well as by training our excavating staff on what we require. This is one of the areas that truly separate us from the pack.

Coordinating National and International Shipments
We have extensive experience coordinating loads throughout the United States and the Caribbean. The Port of Miami is 30 minutes to our North. As such we are familiar with all seaboard shipping companies and will work to get you the lowest estimate on any load leaving the United States. Those loads in the state of Florida are typically handled by our own trucks and are quoted on a case by case basis. On LTL shipments in the state of Florida, we use FedEx Freight. Call our office for up to the minute quotes as rates change monthly.

How to Install Coralina Tiles in 4 Easy Steps

Coralina tile provides a beautiful, long lasting wall that's easy to take care of and is almost impossible to mark or stain. You can install wall tiles literally any place you want to be able to enjoy their beauty, but the obvious locations are in outdoor kitchens (as backsplashes or countertops) and in bathrooms and showers. Although most people think a coralina wall is difficult to install, the reality is it's not beyond the range of a handy DIY'er who is willing to spend some time understanding the process and take his time installing the wall.

Here's what you'll need:
• Coralina tiles
• Cement board or green drywall
• Galvanized cement board screws
• Fiberglass tape
• Level
• Pencil
• Tile adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Tile cutter (rented)
• Tile nippers
• Grout
• Rubber float
• Sponge
• Buckets of clear water
• Utility knife
• Silicon caulk

Preparing the Wall
Coralina tiles can be installed directly on drywall, plaster, or if they are in moist areas, onto "green" drywall or even better cement backer board. Green drywall is specifically designed for use in bathrooms. It's as easy (or as hard) to work with as ordinary drywall, but it's specially formulated to resist moisture. Its best use is in a kitchen or bathroom where the environment will get moist, but not where it will actually be exposed to water.

Cement backer board is actually made from a fiberglass mesh and Portland cement, so moisture won't bother it at all. It is available in 1/2 and 5/8-inch thick sheets (similar to drywall), and is usually sold in 32 or 36-inch wide panels 5 or 8 feet long. Cement board is cut the same way as ordinary drywall - score it with a utility knife and then snap it at the line. It's installed by screwing it to the underlying studs; place the screws about 6 inches apart and use special galvanized screws that won't rust. The seams are finished by taping with special fiberglass seaming tape. Cement board is the best thing to use in a shower installation and even makes sense if you are installing a backsplash close to a sink.

Laying Out Your Tile Pattern
Find the center of your wall and use a carpenter's level to mark intersecting plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal) lines. Dry fit the first row of coralina tiles starting at the center and working your way to the ends of the wall. You want the coralina tiles at both row ends to be approximately the same size, so you may have to adjust your vertical reference line to make them match up.

Installing the Tile
Starting in the center, on one side of your reference line, apply a coat of tile setting adhesive to an area about 3' by 3' square. Take care not to cover your lines. Spread the adhesive with the smooth side of your notched trowel and then go over it with the notched side to create ridges in the adhesive.

Firmly press each coralina tile in place and give it a slight twisting motion to be sure it makes good contact with the adhesive. As you work your way along, place tile spacers on all four sides of each tile, so your grout lines will be consistent. Take your time and work on the wall in three square foot sections.

At the end of a row or around fixtures, you'll probably need to cut some tiles. A rented ceramic tile cutter is the easiest way to make your straight cuts. Using this tool, score the cut line on a full tile and then snap the tile along the scribed line. Smooth the edge with 80 grit sandpaper (the edge of a cut coralina tile is very sharp).

Cutting irregular shaped tiles or around obstructions will require using "tile nippers." These are a heavy duty hand tool that you use to "nip" or bite off little pieces of a tile, one at a time, until you have cut the needed shape.

Grouting
After the coralina tiles have all been installed and the adhesive has set up (probably overnight), it's time to grout the tiles. Depending on the width of your grout lines, you will need to choose either sanded or unsanded grout. If the spaces between the tiles are bigger than 1/8", use sanded grout. (Sanded grout actually contains sand particles that help make the grout joint stronger.)

Remove all your tile spacers and mix the grout following manufacturer's directions (it should end up with a peanut butter-like consistency). If you're grouting in a bathroom or kitchen area, be sure your grout includes a waterproofing agent.
Using a rubber float, apply the grout at a 45-degree angle to the grout lines.
Press firmly; you want to get grout all the way down to the bottom of the seams. Work in your 3' x 3' areas to be sure you get uniform coverage of all the grout lines. Wipe off any excess grout with a wet sponge and clear water.

7 Artsy Ways to Make Your Landscaping Stand Out Using Natural Stones

You say that your landscaping is complete? Then show me your stones! That's right, landscaping stones. The artful application of landscaping stone could enhance the natural elements that you've already employed -- namely, your plants. And the aesthetic and functional use of stone can even raise the value of your property. You tend to your trees and lawn, and you lavish your vegetable plants with attention. Why, your posies even get to rest their pretty little heads on something we dub "flower beds." With all this attention to the animate denizens of the landscape, don't forget their inanimate counterparts, which include soil and stone. Without proper soil, of course, plants will not grow well; no amount of artistry will make up for a flawed canvas. And without the skillful arrangement of stone and other hardscape components, the most artistic of landscapes would lack a frame to set it off tastefully.

For many, a boulder at a driveway entrance, with their name/address painted on it or chiseled into it, will suffice. But the possibilities are limited only by the time you wish to spend. Or by the money you are willing to pay professionals to do it for you. For some hardscape projects, you will need to combine your landscaping stone with mortar -- or perhaps use concrete, brick, or tile, instead of stone. These and other variations must be considered when taking on one of the most popular hardscape projects -- building a patio. Whether composed of concrete, stone, or some other hardscape material, patios are a wonderful way to tie the indoors with the outdoors, thereby uniting house and landscape effectively and creating outdoor living spaces. In regions plagued by drought, or for homeowners who want a low-maintenance landscape, an interesting alternative to lawns is the extended patio, which is simply an enlarged patio that takes up space where lawn grass would otherwise be planted.

The use of stone includes, but is not limited to:

• Patio floors/walls

• Paths, including garden stepping stone walkways

• Columns to support car ports

• Outbuildings made entirely of stone

• Foundations for porches and decks

• Accent pieces for water gardens and, of course, rock gardens

• Stone walls