How to Install Coralina Tiles in 4 Easy Steps

Coralina tile provides a beautiful, long lasting wall that's easy to take care of and is almost impossible to mark or stain. You can install wall tiles literally any place you want to be able to enjoy their beauty, but the obvious locations are in outdoor kitchens (as backsplashes or countertops) and in bathrooms and showers. Although most people think a coralina wall is difficult to install, the reality is it's not beyond the range of a handy DIY'er who is willing to spend some time understanding the process and take his time installing the wall.

Here's what you'll need:
• Coralina tiles
• Cement board or green drywall
• Galvanized cement board screws
• Fiberglass tape
• Level
• Pencil
• Tile adhesive
• Notched trowel
• Tile cutter (rented)
• Tile nippers
• Grout
• Rubber float
• Sponge
• Buckets of clear water
• Utility knife
• Silicon caulk

Preparing the Wall
Coralina tiles can be installed directly on drywall, plaster, or if they are in moist areas, onto "green" drywall or even better cement backer board. Green drywall is specifically designed for use in bathrooms. It's as easy (or as hard) to work with as ordinary drywall, but it's specially formulated to resist moisture. Its best use is in a kitchen or bathroom where the environment will get moist, but not where it will actually be exposed to water.

Cement backer board is actually made from a fiberglass mesh and Portland cement, so moisture won't bother it at all. It is available in 1/2 and 5/8-inch thick sheets (similar to drywall), and is usually sold in 32 or 36-inch wide panels 5 or 8 feet long. Cement board is cut the same way as ordinary drywall - score it with a utility knife and then snap it at the line. It's installed by screwing it to the underlying studs; place the screws about 6 inches apart and use special galvanized screws that won't rust. The seams are finished by taping with special fiberglass seaming tape. Cement board is the best thing to use in a shower installation and even makes sense if you are installing a backsplash close to a sink.

Laying Out Your Tile Pattern
Find the center of your wall and use a carpenter's level to mark intersecting plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal) lines. Dry fit the first row of coralina tiles starting at the center and working your way to the ends of the wall. You want the coralina tiles at both row ends to be approximately the same size, so you may have to adjust your vertical reference line to make them match up.

Installing the Tile
Starting in the center, on one side of your reference line, apply a coat of tile setting adhesive to an area about 3' by 3' square. Take care not to cover your lines. Spread the adhesive with the smooth side of your notched trowel and then go over it with the notched side to create ridges in the adhesive.

Firmly press each coralina tile in place and give it a slight twisting motion to be sure it makes good contact with the adhesive. As you work your way along, place tile spacers on all four sides of each tile, so your grout lines will be consistent. Take your time and work on the wall in three square foot sections.

At the end of a row or around fixtures, you'll probably need to cut some tiles. A rented ceramic tile cutter is the easiest way to make your straight cuts. Using this tool, score the cut line on a full tile and then snap the tile along the scribed line. Smooth the edge with 80 grit sandpaper (the edge of a cut coralina tile is very sharp).

Cutting irregular shaped tiles or around obstructions will require using "tile nippers." These are a heavy duty hand tool that you use to "nip" or bite off little pieces of a tile, one at a time, until you have cut the needed shape.

Grouting
After the coralina tiles have all been installed and the adhesive has set up (probably overnight), it's time to grout the tiles. Depending on the width of your grout lines, you will need to choose either sanded or unsanded grout. If the spaces between the tiles are bigger than 1/8", use sanded grout. (Sanded grout actually contains sand particles that help make the grout joint stronger.)

Remove all your tile spacers and mix the grout following manufacturer's directions (it should end up with a peanut butter-like consistency). If you're grouting in a bathroom or kitchen area, be sure your grout includes a waterproofing agent.
Using a rubber float, apply the grout at a 45-degree angle to the grout lines.
Press firmly; you want to get grout all the way down to the bottom of the seams. Work in your 3' x 3' areas to be sure you get uniform coverage of all the grout lines. Wipe off any excess grout with a wet sponge and clear water.

7 Artsy Ways to Make Your Landscaping Stand Out Using Natural Stones

You say that your landscaping is complete? Then show me your stones! That's right, landscaping stones. The artful application of landscaping stone could enhance the natural elements that you've already employed -- namely, your plants. And the aesthetic and functional use of stone can even raise the value of your property. You tend to your trees and lawn, and you lavish your vegetable plants with attention. Why, your posies even get to rest their pretty little heads on something we dub "flower beds." With all this attention to the animate denizens of the landscape, don't forget their inanimate counterparts, which include soil and stone. Without proper soil, of course, plants will not grow well; no amount of artistry will make up for a flawed canvas. And without the skillful arrangement of stone and other hardscape components, the most artistic of landscapes would lack a frame to set it off tastefully.

For many, a boulder at a driveway entrance, with their name/address painted on it or chiseled into it, will suffice. But the possibilities are limited only by the time you wish to spend. Or by the money you are willing to pay professionals to do it for you. For some hardscape projects, you will need to combine your landscaping stone with mortar -- or perhaps use concrete, brick, or tile, instead of stone. These and other variations must be considered when taking on one of the most popular hardscape projects -- building a patio. Whether composed of concrete, stone, or some other hardscape material, patios are a wonderful way to tie the indoors with the outdoors, thereby uniting house and landscape effectively and creating outdoor living spaces. In regions plagued by drought, or for homeowners who want a low-maintenance landscape, an interesting alternative to lawns is the extended patio, which is simply an enlarged patio that takes up space where lawn grass would otherwise be planted.

The use of stone includes, but is not limited to:

• Patio floors/walls

• Paths, including garden stepping stone walkways

• Columns to support car ports

• Outbuildings made entirely of stone

• Foundations for porches and decks

• Accent pieces for water gardens and, of course, rock gardens

• Stone walls

How to build a dry creek bed river rocks

Do you have a slope on your property down which excess water flows, causing erosion on the slope and/or a landscape drainage problem below? Homeowners often get rid of such pooling by building dry creek beds. Besides the practical aspect of improving landscape drainage, dry creek beds can also be attractive. In fact, some folks with absolutely no landscape drainage problems build dry creek beds just because they like the look of them!

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: 4 hours/10 feet

Here's How:

1. First plan the course that the dry creek bed will take down the slope. Mark the 2 edges of that course with landscaper's paint. A meandering course looks more natural than a straight course. How high up the slope should you start? In some cases, there's little choice. For instance, if a landscape drainage pipe that's already in place is dumping all that excess water onto your property, your decision is clear-cut: begin the dry creek bed by grading the land right under that pipe....

2. But in cases where you have more leeway (especially for dry creek beds that are purely decorative), attempt to disguise the "headwaters" of the dry creek bed by making it bend out from behind a large boulder or some plant material. When the source of a stream is mysterious, viewers have to use their imagination. And what we construct with our hands is rarely as pleasing as what we construct with our minds!

3. We've talked about how high up the slope to start. But what about where to finish down below? Some homeowners redirect excess water toward the street. But it's best to contemplate a worst-case scenario when dealing with public property, because that means dealing with the government -- which can be a real stickler when it comes to issues like redirecting excess water. So check with your local public works department first. If their response is positive, get something in writing that says so....

4. What if you're not allowed to redirect the water to the street? Unless you already have a landscape drainage system in place (allowing you to route the runoff into that system), you have 2 main options. You could channel the water to a location on your land (but make sure it's your land, not a neighbor's!) where it's less troublesome and where, if the soil is sandy enough, it can percolate harmlessly down into the ground. A second option is to build a pond and funnel the water into it.

5. So much for the course of a dry creek bed. What about its depth and width? These dimensions don't have to conform to any rule exactly. Look at dry creek beds in nature: they're obviously not all of the same depth and width. But there's a general rule you can follow: dry creek beds tend to be wider than they are deep, which is good news for you -- less digging! A 2:1 ratio is about right, meaning you could make the dry creek bed 3' wide x 1.5' deep, for example.

6. With the planning done, now it's time for the first real work in the project: the digging. It's easy to build dry creek beds for landscape drainage, provided that the soil you'll be excavating isn't strewn with roots and rocks. Those with difficult soil to excavate can take solace in the fact that excavating the dry creek bed will be the toughest part of the project!

7. Take the soil that you're excavating and mound it up along the sides of your dry creek bed, as you go. This will reduce the amount of digging that you have to do, since you'll be lowering the base and raising the sides in one motion. Tamp down this excavated soil with a tamping tool.

8. After the trench for the dry creek bed has been excavated, lay down landscape fabric along its whole length. You want the fabric to cover the mounds of earth on both sides, as well as the trench. Hold the fabric in place using fabric pins or garden staples. Now for the part of the project that will be visible to viewer's: the rock....

9. For projects intended to improve landscape drainage, all rocks need to be mortared into place to form a solid channel that will carry water away (for ornamental dry creek beds, this is optional -- and probably undesirable). Apply mortar only to short sections of the fabric at a time, since mortar dries quickly. Use at least 2" of mortar. Lay the rocks in the mortar, then repeat the process with the next short section. It's easier to work from the top of the slope, down.

10. You can use rock of various shapes and sizes, but many homeowners prefer to select more round rocks ("river rocks") than flat ones. Round rocks conjure up an image of the water that has been gushing over them, knocking them about and causing them to become round over time.

11. Place small river rocks in the center of the trench; the water will flow over these.

12. Place your larger rocks on the sides of the dry creek bed, where they'll help channel the water and where they'll have the most visual impact. Save any boulders for the biggest bends in your stream's course and to disguise the "headwaters" of the dry creek bed (as discussed in Step 2 above).

Tips:

After you build dry creek beds, you can dress them up a bit. Plants will soften the edges, for instance. If you're more ambitious, you can install a landscape bridge over the dry creek bed and plant tall ornamental grasses to serve as "bookends" at both entrances to the landscape bridge. Adorn the landscape bridge with hanging container gardens to create a knockout focal point for your yard.

What You Need:

• Landscaper's paint

• Landscape fabric

• Fabric pins or garden staples

• River rocks and boulders

• Mortar

• Wheelbarrow for mixing the mortar

• Tamping tool

• Shovel

How to Select The Best Travertine For Your Next Project

Do your research! Ask questions of the experts the salespeople, local paver installers such as Larry’s Cap Rock & Stone, owners of travertine pavers, and other sources. They can help you make an informed purchase. Knowledge is the best means of achieving the results you want.

Consider where you wish to install your travertine pavers; what kind of conditions will it need to be able to withstand? Foot traffic and moisture levels should be the most obvious considerations, as well as any spillage or staining problems that may arise from your young children or pets.

With the location in mind, think about the issue of finish. This should help you to choose the kind of finish that would be the most suitable. Tumbled or brushed travertine pavers may answer the slip-resistance question. But honed or polished may meet your visual requirements. Weigh the pros and cons, always balancing visuals with practicality.

Choose an appropriate sealer. This is an important step regardless of which type of travertine paver you choose. Consult the experts your local retailers of stone products can help with this on which products are best for your particular choice in travertine paver. As always, follow the instructions on any the labels of any products you do buy to make sure you get the results you are after.

When you finally get your travertine, expect there to be slight color variances. Despite the fact that there has already been a selection process for color variation, travertine tile is still a natural product with varying degree of mineral deposits from tile to tile. But you can use this to your advantage. Open all boxes and try a dry run using all of the tiles in your batch. Be creative!
A travertine paver installation links your interior or exterior with a architectural tradition that goes back thousands of years, as well a linking it to an ongoing tradition likely to last for thousands more!

Larry’s Cap Rock & Stone offers travertine tile and pavers. They offer subtle yet rich tones to any interior or exterior, as well as a level of long-lasting durability which makes it a reliable material as well as a decorative one.

We offer a large selection of beach pebbles for your next pond or garden project. Amazing and inspiring Mexican beach pebbles

We offer a large selection of beach pebbles for your next pond or garden project. Amazing and inspiring Mexican beach pebbles, pebble tile, and river pebbles to compliment your home.

Our collection of beach pebbles is one of the largest in the Southeast. Whether you are looking for black Mexican beach pebbles, earth toned pebbles or vibrant color pebbles, Larry's Cap Rock and Stone has a product that is right for your project.

Beach pebbles provide a finished look for your landscape project and offer protection for foliage. Larry’s Cap Rock & Stone offers a wide variety of beach pebbles, gravels, and pebble tile both from domestic and imported sources. Our beach pebbles typically range from ½ inch to 5 inch. However, we are happy to special order sizes not reflected in our catalog. Our signature line transforms any landscape into a visual indulgence.

• Most competitive beach pebble prices in southeast United States

• Most diverse selection of beach pebbles available in Florida

• First Quality: We don’t stock commercial quality.

• Safety: Natural stone is non-skid even when wet

• Environmentally friendly through water use reduction

• Beach pebbles available for immediate shipment

• Family owned & operated with integrity & honesty

Please note that due to variations in PC monitors it is best to make your selection based on actual samples or after conversing with one of our skilled sales professionals about your color specification needs.

All beach pebbles come in a variety of sizes ranging from 1/2 inch to 7 inches. Please specify the sizes you need when ordering.